Prop shafts

[benhall]

Go merge John, it'll be fun, if the banks can do it!....Dave

[SkyFire]

Now how do you merge topics

[fedup]

 Had a phone call from bissette about props,prop shaft for static
 model Will be supplyed with later issues,was not told when,will
 find more later.
                           fedup.

[SkyFire]

Sounds like typical hatchette efficiency.

I want mine now - whines - LoL

[Noco]

At the bottom of this screen you will see a merge topic button then who knows from there. Will give it a go next week. Really just wanted Harry to agree on the merge as he started the 2nd topic. Done it once before and sprit topics ones.

[benhall]

Look out shipmates,part 113 has the  outboard prop hangers', hopefully for the STATIC version, certainly looks like it, but it's a LONG way off!! (Info from German Site)..Dave.

[SkyFire]

As long as thats what they are, bit hard to tell from the photos, I thought. I could well be wrong though.

Wouldn't be the 1st time.

[SkyFire]

If all goes well 3 scale brass propellors will be winging their way to me after Christmas. Then I just have to find some M2 shafts and prop tubes which should be fairly easy here, I think.

Have read on the UK site that the plastic ones for the static model have been turning up with bent and/or broken blades.

See Below
http://buildthebismark.proboards52.com/index.cgi?action=display&board=generalbuild&thread=1476&page=1

[fedup]

G-Afternoon skyfire.

If you are looking for prop shaft,go to radio controll in the jump to, greg has put a web address for miniature steam models on
(november 07)( Reply 15) in it they have a list of prop shafts and props.
I think they are in sydney.??

[SkyFire]

Ahh ok. There is a place I can get the shafts from here in Canberra and since the propellors will have M2 to M4 converters included in what I'm ordering, thing shouldn't be a problem I hope. Will look at the site anyway just in case.

[Gerry]

G.Day Each.
Just received issues 112 to 115.
Issue 113 includes the Prop Shaft Fairings and the A Frames( instructions call them 'Brackets')
Of course they are made of Plastic,which is fair enough but is no good for the Radio Controlled Unit that I am attempting to build.
So I will have to get the old thinking cap on and try to come up with something in Brass that I can fit and rely on.
At least now i do have some idea of size etc that i can work to.
Will also have to work out the angles to drill for the Prop Shafts.
Will let you know how I get on.
Gerry

[Rod]

Damn. I'm still waiting for the next issues The bisset mag site says issues 112-115 were shipped on 30th September... Perhaps the mailman got lost in the dust storm on the way up to Brisbane.

[Gerry]

G.Day Each,
Well i have had my thinking cap on and i have had a think.
Actually i am one of those types, as i am sure there are many of you, who can go to bed with a problem and wake up in the morning with the answer.
I have decided to drill for the Prop Shafts first and to set the angle as near as possible to line up with the center of the Motors.
If you can get the Shaft inline with the Motor Shaft then the unit will run more smoothly even with a universal coupling.
Now for the 'A' Frames.
I will make 4 Brass Pads to the correct shape and secure them to the Hull in the desired positions.
I have made a copy of the Bearing Blocks again in brass with a PTFE insert as the Bearing.
When these Bearing Blocks are in their correct position i will make the Legs to the length required and Solder them in position between the Bearing Blocks and the Brass Pads previously secured to the hull.
I am not decided yet as to what  to do with the Plastic Prop Shaft Fairings that are fitted to the Hull where the Prop Shafts emerge.
I will probably end the Prop Shaft Housing just out side the Hull and let the Prop Shaft go through the Fairing with a little clearance. 
I think that if i follow these steps that i should not come up against problems of the Prop Shaft binding anywhere.
I will let you know how i get on,possibly a Photo or two.
Gerry.

[Gerry]

G.Day Each.
Well after a think and a try at different possibilities i managed to drill for the Prop Shaft Tubes.
I just happened to have a 1/4'' drill secured to a length of Silver Steel that i had made for a mate some time ago.
So aligning the rod with the holes and cut outs in the main frames i drilled out the bottom of the Hull in the surposed   position for the Prop Shaft Tubes.
The Prop Shaft Tubes were made from 1/4" Brass Tubes that i managed to purchase in a Model Shop together with 4mm dia rod to the same length.
The reason i chose 4mm was that i had managed to obtain a set of Props for the Bismarck from England and these were threaded 4mmm.
In only ment that i had to make some bearing blocks from Phospher Bronze.
I know what you are thinking,i should have used Stainless Steel for the Shafts.
My excuse is that i did not have any 4mm Stainless Steel Rod of a Suitable length,only some Antena Rods that i considered  too rough.
But the Brass Shafts will do for the time being.
Now comes the problem with the 'A' frames.
I made some Brass Pads and secured them to the hull in the desired position.
I made suitable Prop Shaft End Housings and fitted them with Phosphor Bronze Bearings.
I found suitable Shaft covers from an old Car Ariel that i had and did not want to throw away.
This cover goes between the end of the Prop Shaft Tube and the Bearing Block attached to the 'A' Frame.
The Prop Shaft Tube was aligned with the Two Motors that were secured to a suitable Mounting,and Araldited in position.
The 'A' Frame units were set to length and Soldered in position whilst the Prop Shafts were set to run free.
I know that some of you are at odds to solder so i will let you into a little secret that was given to me many moons ago by a Tin Smith.
First clean the joints,and i mean clean.
Then, what ever you do, 'DO NOT TOUCH THE AREA WITH YOUR FINGERS!!!'
Now lightly Tin the parts that you wish to solder and away you go.
If you do manage to get your fingers into contact with the joint then stop and clean,you will quickly learn that the fingers secrete an oil that will not allow solder to take hold.
In the last issues of the build i received some Plastic Props and Fairings etc,that were ment for the static model.
I tried to incorporate the Prop Shaft to Hull Fairings but failed miserably.
So i cut it up to suitable units and secured then to the Hull with Araldite.
I now await the drying out and finishing off the fairings with suitable putty.
Will let you know how i get along as the next job is to drill for the Rudder Posts.
I see in the construction pictures showing the fitting of the sealing ring to the inside of the Hull that the Rudders are fitted.
I am at a loss as to when we were given instructions for this operation.
Enclosed  are a few pictures showing the build to date.
I know that i am not up to the mark when it comes to speed in building as i wish to get things right,well from my angle anyway.
Gerry