Building the Bismarck & Other Models the Aussie Way
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Building the Bismarck & Other Models the Aussie Way  |  Officers Mess  |  Build diaries of other models  |  Topic: My Lancaster Bomber - SkyFire 0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic. « previous next »
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SkyFire
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« Reply #15 on: June 08, 2010, 10:59:32 AM »

A few of the nice Amati speedboats. There is just something about these boats, no idea what it is, but I like them a lot. They can be made r//c I think. Smiley

Kit built 1
Italian Runabout - 1970 (Tipo Riva Aquarama)
http://www.amatimodel.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=36&Itemid=6

Ready built models.
Italian Runabout - 1970 (Tipo Aquarama Special)
http://www.amatimodel.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=106&Itemid=6

Italian Runabout - 1963 (Tipo Riva Aquarama)
http://www.amatimodel.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=105&Itemid=6

Italian Runabout - 1960 (Tipo Tritone)
http://www.amatimodel.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=107&Itemid=6
« Last Edit: June 08, 2010, 11:03:53 AM by SkyFire » Logged

R.I.P. Eva, I will never forget you!!! - "The greatest thing you will ever learn, is just to love and be loved in return -- Moulin Rouge" <> http://railvillage.proboards.com/
SkyFire
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« Reply #16 on: June 08, 2010, 11:06:43 AM »

http://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/amati_riva_aquarama.html

Amati Riva Aquarama with Motor & Transmission Set (1608/3)
The Riva Aquarama appeared on the market in 1963 as a development of the twin engined Tritone. It is the last heir of the well known tradition of mahogany runabouts. In fact it is still built today as 30 years ago.

The kit includes:
Laser cut Wooden hull components, Double Planking, Simulated Leather Seats, Brass Chromed Parts, Detailed Interiors, Plans and Instructions.

This version also includes the Motor kit A1608/02 which includes: 2 electric motors, 2 gear boxes, 2 complete shafts and stern tubes, 2 propellers, 2 complete tillers, electronic speed controller.

Scale 1:10
Length: 850mm

Part No: 1608/3
Price: £498.95 (Including VAT at 17.5%)
Euros: €573.79 (Inc VAT) / US Dollars: US$594.50 (Tax Free)
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benhall
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« Reply #17 on: June 08, 2010, 03:17:33 PM »

Well, there you go, you learn summat every day by gum..thanks Anthony......Dave
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« Reply #18 on: July 19, 2010, 11:20:39 AM »

Had a bit of a setback when a frame broke last night, wonder if I can get away with not having it, since it will be covered over anyway.
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« Reply #19 on: July 19, 2010, 01:29:31 PM »

Don't think that way Anthony, just because you can't see it, a frames a frame, it's got to be there for a reason. Can you not make another from scratch, or fix the broken one, I take it, it is a wooden part??
I think I broke something like a frame on a model I was working on, glue alone wouldn't hold it as it was supportive, 'splints' wouldn't do as they were obstructive, so I took the two (or more?) broken parts, I laid them flat as one and carefully penciled in some lines across both (or more) and at the points of intersection I'd drill holes centrally on the broken bits, then add pins or dowels, glue and join, solid, good as new!!.....get the picture??.
Just an idea, not knowing the exact nature of the thing Anthony, perhaps that wont work, but I'm sure you can seek out a solution???....Dave
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« Reply #20 on: July 19, 2010, 01:42:41 PM »

They are far to thin for splints, so going to add some scrap wood acorss the joins and hope it works out.
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« Reply #21 on: July 19, 2010, 01:50:49 PM »

Did you mean the pins, "too thin for pins??"...how small of a drill do you have?? "it's no impossible Captain, Ah can still fix it"..Scotty would say that!!!Dave
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« Reply #22 on: July 19, 2010, 01:55:57 PM »

I'll have to get a photo of it, so you can see just how thin this plywood is.
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« Reply #23 on: July 19, 2010, 02:04:21 PM »

Way to go Anthony, another thought, what about making it from 'Plasticard?Huh'........Dave
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« Reply #24 on: July 19, 2010, 02:07:02 PM »

The broken frame, it's about 1mm thick or so.



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« Reply #25 on: July 19, 2010, 03:09:46 PM »

Ouch!, looks as if you'll need it as well!! I think we can forget the drill and pin method! "What if" you got a strip of brass (I'm sure you'll have used Bismarck frets) and bent it so it would fit around the 'inside edge' of the frame,(Secured with superglue?) it wouldn't get in the way of anything and it would add enough strength to the broken piece so that you could use it??. Just an idea...Dave
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« Reply #26 on: July 19, 2010, 03:12:20 PM »

Maybe, I'll see. I'll work on it some more when I'm a bit more awake. Thinking for other ones, I'll drip some superglue onto them, before I glue them to the baseplate, so hopefully they will be a bit stronger.
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benhall
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« Reply #27 on: July 19, 2010, 03:15:54 PM »

Let's know how you go...Dave
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« Reply #28 on: July 19, 2010, 04:17:12 PM »

Hi everyone

Have you thought about using Araldite, SkyFire, I have found in the past when on repair missions such as yours, that the epoxy resin glue holds, and the end result is stronger than superglue, it may save you some time. I've been a bit lazy, the cold and a 10 day stint of nightwork have put a hold on my dockyard, but I'm about to warm the compressor up and start again.

Bluedot0
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SkyFire
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« Reply #29 on: July 19, 2010, 04:32:29 PM »

Thanks Bluedot0, something else to look at. Smiley
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Building the Bismarck & Other Models the Aussie Way  |  Officers Mess  |  Build diaries of other models  |  Topic: My Lancaster Bomber - SkyFire « previous next »
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